If you have electrical questions you’d like answered in a future edition of this column, send them to the Editor at northshorejournal@gmail.com, or email John directly at john@clovervalleyelectric.com.
Lighting Upgrades for Shops, Garages, and Commercial Spaces
If you’ve spent much time in a shop or commercial space in the past few years, you’ve probably heard the familiar soundtrack of fluorescent lighting coupled with the visual frustrations of light color and flicker as they slowly die. Jadell C. asked whether fluorescent shop lights can be converted to LED, whether ballasts can be removed, and what really has to change in one of these spaces. The short answer to the ballast question is yes, but the best path often depends on what kind of space you have and what shape the existing fixtures are in.
I wrote about the basics of fluorescent-to-LED conversion earlier this year, and as of January 2026, new linear fluorescent tubes and ballasts can no longer be sold in Minnesota. Working tubes in existing fixtures are fine for now, but the days of assuming you can always grab another tube or ballast without planning ahead are pretty much over.
For a lot of spaces with existing fluorescent lighting, the most cost-effective path is a ballast-bypass conversion. In that case, an electrician will remove the ballast and rewire the fixture to feed line voltage directly to the lamp sockets, and then a line-voltage LED tube is installed. Please note that this only works with new line-voltage LED tubes; the old fluorescent tubes cannot be reused with the ballast removed. If the enclosure or housing is still solid, the reflector inside is decent, and the lighting layout already works for the space, bypassing the ballasts is often the best and most economical option. The wiring does need to be done carefully to make sure the line and neutral connections are correct at the sockets, but it’s a well-established conversion at this point, and the parts are readily available.
When the enclosures are rusted, yellowed, poorly placed, or just not producing the kind of light the space needs, I recommend replacing the fixture entirely with a modern LED unit as a better long-term investment. The light distribution and dispersion, plus the efficiency of a purpose-built LED fixture, are generally better than what you get from retrofitting old fluorescent housings. For a shop with twenty or more fixtures, this becomes a real financial question that is worth doing a full comparison before buying a couple of cases of LED tubes.
Where shops and commercial spaces see the biggest gains isn’t just in the tube swap. Fluorescent lighting was almost always on or off without opportunity for consistent dimming. LED technology opens up control options for dimming, occupancy sensors in storage areas, dimming in zones where full output isn’t always needed outside of working hours, and even scheduling with app control. These control systems are not complicated, and they can take a meaningful bite out of energy costs and reduce the hours your fixtures are running. Plus, some local utilities are even offering rebates towards the costs of installing these control systems due to the impacts on energy usage.
If you’re planning a lighting project, a couple of practical details are worth thinking through early. Older commercial buildings sometimes have wiring that needs attention before new fixtures or controls can be installed – things like shared neutrals on “multi”-multiwire branch circuits, ungrounded metal conduit being used as the equipment ground, or 277-volt lighting circuits that need to be sorted out before any new equipment goes in. Proper disposal of the old equipment also needs to be part of the project plan – fluorescent tubes contain mercury, and some older ballasts may contain PCBs. WLSSD, Lake County Recycling Center, and Bucks Hardware in Grand Marais all accept used fluorescent tubes for recycling. Jadell’s question started with whether the ballast can be removed – often, that is the best route to go when moving to LED. Just take a minute to think about the fixture, the controls, and the disposal plan as a whole before getting started.
John Christensen is a licensed Master Electrician in Minnesota and has a bachelor’s degree in electrical engineering from the University of Minnesota – Duluth. If you have electrical questions you’d like answered in a future edition of this column, send them to the editor, or email John directly at john@clovervalleyelectric.com
The advice provided in this column is intended for general informational purposes only. If you have specific concerns or a situation requiring professional assistance, you should consult with a qualified professional for advice or service tailored to your individual circumstances. The author, this newspaper, and publisher are not responsible for the outcomes or results of following any advice from this column. You are solely responsible for your actions.
