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Uncover The Scenic Route: Author Arnold Alanen Visits Two Harbors and Grand Marais

 Living in Minnesota’s scenic North Shore is more than a bless­ing—it’s a conversation starter that never fails to spark admiration. When I tell colleagues from the Twin Cities where I’m from, they light up, sharing stories of family traditions along these shores, often knowing the terrain better than I do. It’s a place woven into personal histories, a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

Most visitors, whether for a week­end getaway or an annual pil­grimage, journey along the iconic Scenic North Shore Highway—a route whose history is now richly captured in Arnold Alanen’s new book, The Scenic Route: Building Minnesota’s North Shore. This isn’t just a historical account; it’s a love letter to the region, tracing its evolution from glacial landscapes to the modern day, while serving as a detailed field guide for explorers drawn to the area.

For more than a century, the North Shore has been a magnetic desti­nation—a place where generations have come to marvel at its beauty and discover its stories.

“There was just that romance that brought people I think because it’s such a unique part of the Midwest,” said Alanen, who was born, raised, and educated in Minnesota. His words echo the sentiment of generations of visitors who have fallen under the North Shore’s spell. The sweeping views, the endless horizon of Lake Superior, and the rugged terrain create a place unlike any other in the region—a place that draws travelers seeking both adventure and a sense of connection to the land.

The author, a retired professor emeritus of landscape architecture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, became enamored with the North Shore during a childhood visit at the age of seven. A “flatlander” used to the level terrain of the Red River Valley, he was struck by the breathtaking sight of the rugged shoreline from Skyline Drive. That moment etched itself into his memory, igniting a fascination with the land that has lasted a lifetime.

“I try to go back to that 7-year-old kid and what an astounding experience it was for me, having never seen anything like that, not even close to that, never even been in a hilly environment before,” he recalled. “Suddenly to have that encounter, it’s why it’s lived with me so vividly for decades now. To have this jewel in the mid­dle of the continent is still astounding to me.”

That initial encounter with the North Shore may have ignited a lifelong fascination in Alanen—a passion for architecture and landscaping that eventually intertwined with a deep curiosity about the history of the land and the stories it holds.

He recalled how, during his youth, people often described buildings as belonging to one of two eras: those constructed before the fire of 1918 and those that came after.

“It was just the fact that people would mark time as they saw it in the landscape, or the events that happened in their life by a natural event,” Alanen said. He explained that this fascination led him to examine the landscape, trying to determine which buildings might have survived the fire—because most didn’t—and to piece together the story.

“It just always intrigued me, looking at the landscape, looking at the buildings, looking at what hills people had, how they had manipu­lated land. It was a very intriguing thing to me, and I just carried it on through to the present,” he explained.

Alanen taught in his department for more than 30 years before retiring 12 years ago. The Scenic Route marks his fifth book, with all of his previous works also focusing on people and places that have left their mark on the land­scape.

“I knew I wanted to do one more book in my retirement,” Alanen said. “It worked out, although it did take 12 years! So many places along the 154 miles. Much of that was perhaps the most daunting part. How I could treat every place equitably and really tell the story truthful­ly and the way that it deserved.”

With so much to cover, Alanen was thorough in his research, gathering a vast collection of pho­tographs, newspaper clippings, and ads—both old and new—that vividly bring the story of the North Shore to life. The first section of the book explores the shore’s beginnings, all the way back to the time of the glaciers, and how the land was shaped and used by people, starting with the Anishinaabe.

As more people discovered the shore and in­dustries changed over the years, one thing has remained constant: the shore’s powerful draw to visitors from all over.

Alanen said, “I don’t think most Euro Ameri­cans realize how long the place has been appre­ciated and that people were touring up there in steamboats in earlier areas before the road was built. And how people would venture out on that primitive trail in their Model As and other vehicles to try to make it to Can­ada. It’s really been appreciated by many generations of people to the present. It’s just not a recent phenomenon.”

That enduring desire to experience the North Shore has drawn peo­ple for over 150 years, despite the rugged terrain that had to be forged and shaped by many hands.

Through extensive research and numerous interviews, Alanen un­covered a deep appreciation among the communities along the lake­shore. He shared, “Something that did surprise me was there always were people in the communities that were along the lake shore who did have appreciation for the lake and the North Shore that went beyond just a place to make a living and somehow to exploit the resources. They recognized that here was a jewel that was really of such importance that it should be protected. I thought that was really interesting that even in these early decades of the 20th century and even earlier into the 19th century, there always were those voices in the wilderness that were recommending that it be protected, appreciated, and really honored.”

The second portion of The Scenic Route serves as both a helpful guide for visitors and a fresh resource for locals. It highlights many places along the North Shore—some well-known, oth­ers less traveled—offering readers a chance to deepen their connection to this beloved region. Alanen’s work invites everyone to explore and appreciate the diverse landscapes and histories that make the North Shore truly unique.

Alanen hopes the book will inspire greater awareness of the importance of maintaining the route and encourage readers to “think more deeply about the meaning of the road.” He em­phasizes the need to “make every effort to pre­serve and conserve it so that it can be enjoyed into the future.” The North Shore, he notes, is a fragile area that requires ongoing love, appreci­ation, and care to protect its special qualities.

When asked to name his favorite spot along the North Shore, Alanen admitted it was like trying to pick a favorite child—impossible to choose just one. For those curious to learn more and perhaps coax out his favorite, Alanen will be presenting at upcoming events featuring a reading, presentation, and Q&A session. These gatherings offer a great opportunity to connect with the author and deepen your appreciation for the North Shore’s rich history.

Upcoming events:

• Tuesday, June 3, 2025, 6:00 PM, Lake County Historical Society, Depot Museum (520 South Ave, Two Harbors)

• Wednesday, June 4, 2025, 6:00 PM, Grand Marais Public Library (104 2nd Avenue West, Grand Marais) Drury Lane Books will have copies of The Scenic Route avail­able for purchase.

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